European Hajj Mission - Live Diary

The European Hajj Mission wishes to say a big thank you to our Hajj Reporter Shan-e-Abbas  Hassam for his live reports that enabled friends and family to keep up to date with activities of the Hujjaj travelling with the EHM.

Our Special thanks and appreciation to:-

1. Maulana Qalbe Abbas
2. Dr Mahmood Datoo
3. Roseminbai Khimji - for organising and running the ladies programme
4. Dr. Akil Nurmohamed, Shabbir Panju, Imran Virji and Gulam Mehdi Sumar for helping the medical team
5. MohamedKazim Bhaloo for taking photographs for the website
6. Iffat Tejani for updating and maintaining the website
7. Reciters Of Duas
8. Donors Of Medicines
9. Donors Of Musalla
9. Donors of Filofax which were extremely appreciated by hujjaj of EHM and all other groups
10. And finally to all Hujjaj For their co-operation which made our task easy

Hajj Qabool Inshallah and Our prayers are with you all
Al-Haj Ahmed Dungersi
Chairman & Group Leader
European Hajj Mission

Day 20 – Sunday 23rd December 2007

Our last day in Makkah and in Saudi Arabia began very early, compared to other days during our stay; we woke up at roughly 8am for last minute packing; whilst others decided to make a quick trip to the Haram for the last time. The weighing scales were still in use; people were fervently weighing their bags to check that they were not overweight, so we would not be troubled at the airport.

By 10am our bags were outside the room; ready for the EHM team members to collect and load onto a truck. Whilst we were waiting for zohrain namaaz, many decided to go to others rooms to talk, or to exchange contact details. EHM has kindly given us contact labels; which we give to one other so they have our address and phone numbers so we can keep in contact.   

We had originally planned to leave at exactly 1pm to head to Jeddah Airport; but the EHM team had one last surprise for us: lunch, from Pizza Hut. After all being issued our baguettes and potato wedges; we gobbled down our food and got ready to depart. We were called out by our bus numbers, and queued up in pairs outside. Being Asr time, we were unable to walk outside the hotel, as the Jamaat namaaz stretched past our hotel. We waited patiently for the salaat to end; looking at the sea of worshippers all performing salaat together.

The journey to the Hajj terminal via our coach was uneventful, with many sleeping, tired after the Hajj. Many gazed out of the window, looking at the sand and rock of the Arabian desert. Upon reaching the terminal, we were shepherded to a waiting area; where we took out our sleeping bags and lay them out. Cups of tea, biscuits, the usual chevro and ghantia, crisps and water were passed around and shared: we are now used to snacking whilst patiently waiting.

While we were relaxing, taking photographs and exchanging details, the EHM Team were arranging and negotiating our check in, as well as unloading the bags. EHM had managed to negotiate an amazing extra ten kilos per person; for which we were grateful. Many were just under the limit; and thus glad they had not bought any more gifts for those at home.

We were made to wait one last time, as we passed through security at the gate. We were pleasantly surprised to be issued gifts from the Saudi authorities as we made our way to the plane: a Quran and some other reading material.

Some were asleep before the flight took off, while others took a while to get comfortable: we have spent more time sitting on hard marble floors than on nice cushioned seats. As we headed for Cairo, we were glad we were almost an hour late; as we were expecting to have a six hour wait in the Cairo airport terminal.

After a safe landing at Cairo; many were expecting that we would need to get our sleeping bags out. However, to our intense surprise and bemusement, we were quickly led out of the airport, into the freezing cold Egyptian morning. We were led onto nice warm coaches, sat for a good half an hour outside the terminal.

Many of us were asleep when the coaches departed; and after an hours drive we were taken to a restaurant for a complimentary breakfast. After being served meat kebabs of various kinds (strange, considering it was 8am!).

We were again boarded on the coaches; and were taken for an excursion to see the pyramids. Posing for photos with the pyramids was something totally unexpected. In any case, we were glad to see the wonderful sights of Egypt; and many joked that they no longer had any reason to come back to Egypt as they had seen its greatest sights! We would like to thank EgyptAir for their hospitality.

After leaving the pyramids, we were taken to a papyrus museum and souvenir factory. With very little subtlety our tour guide suggested we buy some of the souvenirs; and some of the group took the opportunity to do so: papyrus pages with Quranic inscriptions were very popular.

We were driven to the airport and fast tracked to the gate, through security and onto the plane. As we settled into our long flight home, many of us took the time to reflect on the entire journey: we had been taken from our relatively luxurious homes and to the grave of the Prophet Muhammad (s.a.w.); seen the House of Allah which was original raised by Prophet Ibrahim, from the foundations of Prophet Adam and also managed a quick trip to see the Nile and the Pyramids of the Pharaohs, connected to the Quranic story of Prophet Musa. In a sense we had been given, in three weeks, a whirlwind tour of Allah’s revelations to mankind throughout the ages as well as completing our Hajj.

As we landed in Heathrow, we gazed outside: instead of insatiable sunshine and heat of Mecca and Madinah we were greeted to an overcast sky and drizzle of a damp London evening. We were all eager to get off the plane and begin our journey home, but not before we exchanged our goodbyes. There were a few tears in eyes as we separated; all promised to keep in touch, invited others to come to their homes for lunches and dinners.

Day 19 – Saturday 22nd December 2007

The last full day in Makkah began for many a few hours before Zohrain. The corridors continue, even in the final days, to be stacked with cereals, chevro, chocolates and drinks; suggesting that many of the Hujjaj were continually adding to the food tables.

The farewell lunch program began at 12.30; with a recitation of Sura Yaseen and Zohrain Namaaz, which was led by Maulana Qalbe Abbas. Following salaat, we all gathered around for Qasida recitations. The atmosphere was electric; with excellent recitations and participation from all 150 of the Hujjaj; we all felt part of the EHM family; and sad that we had to part very soon.

Ahmed Uncle gave his farewell speech and talked about it being both a sad and happy day. Sad because we would be parting company after almost three weeks together, and happy because we would be meeting with our families and loved ones after three weeks apart. He referred it as a day for “thanksgiving” and took the opportunity to thank Maulana Qalbe Abbas, Dr Mahmood Datoo, Mulyani Rosemin Khimji, the ladies and gents volunteers (other than the EHM team members), Deitch Cooper and Field House for their administration support and the donors of filofaxes and medicines. He also thanked the EHM team, highlighting the contribution of the team and praying to Allah (SWT) to give them a long life to continue to serve the EHM and the community as well as they have this year. He left the floor open to any speaker; and a number of the family came forward to show their personal appreciation to EHM; for their care, dedication and hard work in making this Hajj a smooth success. Many of the family were particularly appreciative of the logistical excellence, the terrific medical work and the sumptuous home cooked meals.

Ahmed Uncle then went through the logistics of the journey home and the procedure to be followed at the Hajj Terminal on departure. The EHM had negotiated a 30Kg baggage allowance for each hujjaj which was greatly appreciated.

He saved the best news till last – as it is customary for the EHM, any excess funds are refunded to hujjaj, and this year each hujjaj was REFUNDED SR300! Everyone’s eyes lit up at the prospect of more shopping!

The evening was left flexible and the vast majority of the Hujjaj could be found in the Haram performing Tawafe Wida. Entering the Haram for the last time is an extremely emotional affair, with sentiments of sadness and thankfulness being felt by all. The Haram continued to be filled to its capacity with Muslims from all nationalities but the mood was much more sombre as many in the Haram were departing back to their respective regions. It was time to perform our last prayers in the Haram before resting for the journey home.  With tears in our eyes and sadness in our hearts we performed our last Tawaf and slowly walked back to the hotel…

Day 18 – Friday 21st December 2007

The Hujjaj woke up for Fajr having had a few hours sleep the night before. The tent was quickly transformed with the mattresses stacked one on top of the other; to make room for Jamaat Namaz, led by Maulana Saheb. Once again breakfast in Mina consisted of cornflakes, sandwiches, tea and coffee.

At 7 am, hujjaj gathered outside the Jamarat for the Wajib stoning of the three Shaytans – Oola, Wusta and Aqaba. Some of the EHM team members suggested that the three Shaytan represented power, wealth and status respectively. This time the Jamarat was much more busier with many of the Hujjaj finding it much more challenging to gain a place closer to the Shaytans. The majority of the group managed to perform Rami within ten minutes and re-gathered at the tents. The time available in the early morning wasn’t wasted as Du’a Nudbah was recited. Many later rested while others continued their Ibadaat. Many during the early morning compared the EHM tents with those surrounding, suggesting how fortunate we as a group were to enjoy the high quality facilities. The accommodation at Mina is literally 5 minutes walk from Jamaraat, when we compare this to other hujjaj who have to walk for about an hour just to perform Rami.

At 11:30 am a majlis programme took place consisting of Sura Yasin and a fitting Majlis by Maulana Saheb in which he highlighted the strong spiritual aspects involved in the Wuqoof of Mina and moreover described the revolution within ourselves during Hajj. On the stroke of Zohr Time, the EHM family gathered outside the tents and quickly moved towards the tunnel. Following a short walk the volunteer team found us transport. This time the traffic outside Mina, in an area called Aziziyah, was horrendous. One Hujjaj commented that it would be faster to walk the ten kilometers to Makkah; although this would be a much more tiring prospect. The three hour ride to Makkah was completed by a brisk walk once within the vicinity of the hotel. We were lucky to arrive in Makkah by mid afternoon. We received reports that some hujjaj did not arrive in Makkah until nightfall.
                                                                                   
Our arrival in Makkah was greeted by some loud cheers. At this point many in the group commented positively on the hotel: some claiming it was 5 Star. The comfort of the Makkah hotel was a direct contrast to the plains of Arafat, Muzdalifah and Mina (despite the comparatively higher level facilities.) At 5pm, following on from a short recitation of Sura Yasin, we were once more treated to some delightful home cooked food. During the evening, many of the Hujjaj headed to the Haram: some to complete their Tawaf-un-Nisa whilst others to perform Mustahab Tawafs…

Day 17 – Thursday 20th December 2007

We woke up for Fajr excited and eager; ready for the challenges we knew that this day would bring. Today, we were going to stone all three Jamarat; as well as heading to Makkah to perform our Tawaaf and Saee of Hajj; then returning to Mina before midnight. An action-packed day stood before us.

After reciting Fajr salaat; which was led by Maulana Qalbe Abbas; we all nourished ourselves with a cup of tea or coffee and some breakfast cereal – getting a last minute energy boost before braving the crowds. As we walked in small groups towards the Jamarat; safety-goggles and stones in hand; we were all quiet, thinking about the significance of each stone and what that throw would mean to us.

Maulana and Ahmed Uncle had reminded us that we could not begin striking the devils until sunrise; which was scheduled for 7am. We were so willing to begin this day we had reached the Jamarat early; and were impatiently waiting for almost 20 minutes. After several nervous, eager glances and wristwatches and mobile phones; the time was right, and we pulled the safety goggles over eyes, took one last moment to collect our thoughts and steered our way through the crowd to reach the appropriate distance.

EHM has a lot of advice and tips to give Hujjaj; based upon years of experience, and one tip they provided was to be patient, find your way to the back of the Jamarat walls and then get up close and stone from there. When the time came, we realised the importance and quality of this advice – there was a huge surging crowd at the front of each of the walls; and when we reached the back it was (relatively) quiet – allowing us to throw our stones safely and not get hit by stray missiles others had thrown.

Within ten minutes; we had finished our stoning of all three walls. It seemed strange to have looked forward with apprehension and excitement at the act we had just completed for hours and days beforehand; and yet it passed quickly in such a short period of time. We were thankful for having completed such a potentially dangerous part of our Hajj safely.

After quickly packing our rucksacks; we began our half hour walk to the place where it would be easiest to find transportation back to Makkah. Ahmed Uncle took the opportunity to remind us that the Tawaaf, Namaaz for Tawaaf and Saee were exactly the same as for Umrah; just with different intention. He also reminded us that we must be back for 5pm at the hotel; and that we could perform our Tawaafun Nisa if we had enough time.

As we were separated into small family groups and dispatched into coaches and 4x4 taxis; we took the opportunity to take stock of what lay ahead of us. Hundreds of thousands of pilgrims would be heading the same way; performing the same acts at exactly the same time as us – the crowds would be intense.

We were dropped off some distance from the hotel; as the local police had closed off roads leading to the Haram to try to manage the traffic. We quickly walked to the hotel; and took the opportunity to freshen up and rehydrate, in anticipation of the midday heat. As we walked to the Haram; it slowly dawned on us that the crowd we had seen before Hajj had begun was nothing in comparison to the crowd that was heading to and from the Holy Mosque now. We were merely specks in a sea of people; 150 in a sea of three million.

As we gazed upon the Kaaba for the first time in three days; the sight was shocking, awesome and intense. The Kaaba itself had changed – we knew that the Kiswa was to be replaced: the gold lettering gleamed in the sunlight, the white cotton fold line now gone. The people – the crowd for Tawaaf was unlike anything we had seen: stretching from the Kaaba all the way to the edge of the ground floor; jam packed. This was not a sea of people worshipping Allah (s.w.t.); it was a huge ocean.

Edging into the tawaaf area was a challenge itself, as we patiently crept forward; bit by bit until we were level with Hajr-e-Aswad. As we saluted the sacred stone, the significance of this simple hand display stuck us yet again – we are shaking the hand of Allah (s.w.t.). For roughly three hours, we were jostled, pushed and pulled by the river of Hujjaj; from everywhere in the world, of every age and race, all doing the same act in the love of Allah. We were lost in the sea of worship.

Finding a place to pray after Tawaaf was a challenge in itself – the area is close to the overcrowded Saee gallery; and with so many doing Tawaaf we need to find a safe place. After half an hour, we had found our spot; turned toward the Kaaba and focussed on Allah. This prayer was peculiar: we were in such a large crowd, and yet we were alone with Allah.

Saee began with us weaving our way toward Safa; joining the surging crowd who are replicating the same walk as Hajra took thousands of years ago. We were squeezed tighter than ever before; and we were glad that the authorities had built an extension both upstairs and to the side. Even though we cannot use it, it makes our own Saee easier, allowing us to focus on our act and not have to worry about our safety.

As we again turned our thoughts toward Allah and supplicated to Him; we realised we were getting closer to Zohr time. Many of the group were performing Saee when Adhan and Iqamah were recited – the whole crowd: those doing Tawaaf, those doing Saee; those walking to get Zamzam, every single person stopped and turned to the Kaaba and began praying. It was a surreal experience: as far as the eye could see, people were in ruku, sajda and in qiyaam. A sight to behold.

After completing Saee the Hujjaj, as individual groups, had to make a decision whether to perform Tawaaf-un-Nisa (if they had time) or to leave that till tomorrow. A few individuals who had completed their Saee early did so; while the rest of us headed for the hotel; where we were able to have a shower; a cold drink and a rest.

It was only when we had a moment to gather our thoughts in the hotel did we realise two things: the hotel now felt like a palace compared to Muzdalifa and the tent in Mina; and that we were glad that EHM was providing a nyaz for us at 5pm because we were all hungry after the exertion that was the Tawaaf and Saee. One of the conditions of Ehram that had remained had been lifted – we could now use perfume: thus we all were glad to get out our Colgate and Sensodyne tubes out and brush our teeth.

As we gathered in the exclusive hall for Sura Yaseen and Nyaz; we began to exchange experiences and stories of what we had seen during the day. All of us were glad of one thing – there had been no major incidents today; the day when things are most likely to go horribly wrong. Many of the EHM team members had said that, without exaggeration, the Saee was 100% less crowded then last year; when many hajis from other countries had been crushed. We were thankful that we; as the EHM group; and as a whole body of 3 million Hujjaj, had completed the Tawaaf and Saee safely.

Tucking into the sumptuous nyaz brought us a new thought – the two chefs had not only completed their wajibaats but also cooked this delightful meal for us in such a short space of time. Their efforts far exceed ours; and we are grateful for their hard work.

At around 8pm we boarded the busses for Mina; with the EHM team members again putting themselves in front of Makkah traffic so that we could safely cross the road. As we boarded the air conditioned coaches, the long journey began. As we sat, some fell asleep due to the tiredness that had accumulated over several days, others listened to the MP3 players we had been provided with, and others engaged in quiet conversation about the meaning of Hajj and the rituals involved.

10pm saw us close to the Mina border; and to ensure that we reached before midnight we began walking toward our tent. The EHM team members had prepared for this possibility: they passed out water bottles to make sure we were fully hydrated and not thirsty after a long journey.  As we were walking, we saw thousands of people, sleeping under the open sky; with mere cardboard and blankets to cover them. We were glad to be in such quality accommodation in Mina; and realised what little hardship we are undergoing compared to others. After an hours gentle walk, back the through the same tunnel we had come through his morning, we settled down in our sofa beds; and were glad to be in Mina before midnight.

As we all settled into sleep; we reflected on the day, leaving Mina; returning to Mecca; the Tawaaf, the Saee, the crowd and our worship of Allah (s.w.t.). With only a few wajibaats left, it is only a matter of hours before our Hajj is complete…

Day 16 – Wednesday 19th December 2007

The Hujjaj were gathered for Fajr Namaaz under the Open Sky of Muzdalifah. We spread out our EHM Musala on the dusty and arid plains. Around us, thousands upon thousands of Hujjaj walked past on their way to Mina, and soon we were to join them. It was an incredible feeling to realise that last night all the Hujjaj – nearly 3 million from all parts of the world, had shared the same open field. The night before was hardly comfortable. The challenge of sleeping on the rocky and uneven plains was matched by our continued unfamiliarity of wearing the Ehram. 

As we packed our sleeping bags, our Musala and left Muzdalifah we looked back and contemplated on what has been a critical night. A night of individual prayer, seeking of forgiveness and of little sleep. Muzdalifah, it was felt, was like a ray of hope in comparison to the fear in our souls whilst in Arafat. Even though we had slept little the majority of the Hujjaj felt fresh and eager to travel to Mina, the next stage of our epic journey.

The EHM team members lined us into groups of three, standing side by the side. As we walked the few kilometres to our tents in Mina we were told to make sure that those either side of us were present; reducing the risk of losing them. This was critical as there were thousands of Hujjaj in and around us walking in the same direction, dressed in Ehram, chanting the Talbiyya. As we briskly walked to Mina there was time for a few hours of reflection. Many commented later that they spent time looking back at their lives: at the mistakes that had plagued them and looking forward to a much brighter future. As we entered Mina’s border (approximately 8km from the Jamarat of the three Shaytans) the road was filled on both sides with lines of tents. It was unsurprising given the sheer numbers of Hujjaj to see many camp so far away from the Jamarat. By contrast once we had finished our three hour walk we had realised how fortunate we as a group were. Our tents were only a stone throw away from the Jamarat, and proved testament to EHM’s experience and excellent organisation.

As we walked into the tents in Mina we were greeted by those who had travelled to Mina the night before, the ladies and the elderly. We were told that they had already performed the stoning ritual and were eager for us to do the same. Questions and comments were hurled in different directions as the Hujjaj were keen to share their experiences. After a short breakfast and a comfort break we departed for the Jamarat.

The crowds were beginning to increase significantly. As we gathered outside the Jamarat we were led through our Niyyat once again. Today our Wajibaat was to hit the Jamarat Aqaba (large Shaytan) with seven pebbles. The EHM team led us through our Niyyat once more and briefed us one what to expect. In addition, the EHM team explained that we need to make sure we walked around the Shaytan and to find a spot nearby; reducing the likelihood of throwing pebbles that missed the Jamarat. Today, as we were in Ehram we could not wear the EHM goggles to protect our eyes. Inside the Jamarat tunnel crowds were gathering from all directions. Fortunately the EHM team continued the ingenious light system so that from afar we could spot our group leaders. As we moved towards the Jamarat many began naming aloud their stones after features within themselves which were unislamic. Examples including arrogance, selfishness and backbiting. These stones were named after that which we wanted to change within ourselves; after all were stoning that which Shaytan has cemented within us. After walking in the tunnel for more than half a kilometre we arrived at the Jamarat Aqaba. The Hujjaj listened to their group leaders and rather than stoning the Jamarat immediately patiently walked to a safer spot towards the end of the Jamarat. The Jamarat has been extended and was now the size of a double decker bus. Once we had found the right area we performed the stoning with cries of ‘Allahu Akber.’ We then regrouped and made our way back to our tents.

Our tents were lined with mattresses, pillows and blankets and had little space to move in between. The Hujjaj tired from a long walk coupled with the lack of sleep; quickly gathered in their beds. Many slept for a number of hours; waking up for Zohr Namaaz. After Namaaz, Ahmed uncle entered our tents with some highly awaited news. As he stood in front of us a circle quickly formed; and he informed us that the Qurbani on our behalf had been completed.

Immediately, the Hujjaj gathered once more outside for the Halaq and Taqseer. The EHM team signposted us to a number of ‘official’ barbers. Each of the barbers was surrounded by unending queues of eager, impatient and anxious Hujjaj. Our mission now was to make sure we would shave our heads but without the scratches and cuts which we had been warned of. As we sat down on the barber chair; and as we readied ourselves for rebirth it was time to make some new resolutions with Allah (swt.) We were about to be reborn; and the revolution within us was nearly complete. In many ways the burden of sin and past wrongs were about to be lifted. The process of Halaq lasted only a few minutes and was seemingly effortless; with few Hujjaj gaining cuts. Those who had performed Hajj for the first time ran back to the tents to show their parents, siblings and other halves of what they looked like now. Many were unrecognisable.

Once the Halaq was completed we could now take off our Ehram. The Ehram in many ways symbolised our death; and the Halaq our rebirth. Following a shower all the Hujjaj now put back their more comfortable clothes.

The evening meal including chicken nuggets with bread as well as fizzy drinks. Throughout the trip fizzy drinks were banned but the EHM team had promised that this would be given to us in Mina. Many by now realised the reason for the ban and opted for water in order to reduce the likelihood of gaining further sore throats and bouts of flu. As the evening drew to a close many of the ‘family’ travelled to Masjid-e-Khif; whilst others took time to rest….

Day 15, Tuesday 16th December 2007

The plains of Arafat were arid and rocky: the terrain was abrupt with the surface eroded into large, sharp, jagged, broken boulders. Even for the early morning, it was hot with little moisture in the air. The desert of Arafat was unwelcoming; even so thousands upon thousands had set up camp and began their Ibadaat. Many of the Hujjaj realised that the fearful nature of the Arafat plains was an example of the conditions that may be akin to the Day of Judgement when we will be asked to account for our actions.

The volunteers ushered us into our comfortable cabins. Many of the Hujjaj were expecting to stay in tents like those surrounding the campsite, but the European Hajj Mission have over the years been able to negotiate for accommodation at this special camp that consists of cabins, and we were surprised to see the air conditioning, the wallpaper and the plugs that lined the walls. Inside each of cabins – were mattresses, pillows with blankets. Tea and coffee facilities had been set up and the volunteers had set up the breakfast table with cerals, biscuits and other bitings.

The volunteers suggested the Hujjaj rest until Zohr: after which we would commence the Amaals for the day of Arafat.

After lunch, the Amaals commenced and included the Du’a of Imam Hussain (A.S.) from the plains of Arafat in Arabic with commentary in English as well as the English translation of Dua Kumail. We were repeatedly told that this was our best opportunity to ask Allah (swt) to forgive our sins – and so we prayed for our forgiveness. Many took the time to contemplate on their lives, their actions and their sins further emphasising the parallels with the Day of Reckoning. The backdrop surrounding the campsite of aggressive, parched and broken landscape brought a strong sense of fear and realisation of hopelessness.

The compulsory Wuqoof time between Zohr and Maghrib was short lived and very quickly it was time to continue our journey to Muzdalifah. The volunteers gathered us on the edge of our campsite and split us into pairs – the customary procedure for headcounts. We were then shepherded onto our respective coaches and within a record breaking thirty minutes arrived in Muzdalifah; the ladies moving onto Mina for the night.

In Muzdalifah it was nightfall. Although surrounded by rocky mountains, the open sky seemed to provide much more hope than the arid plains of Arafat. Without a cloud in sight, the night sky glistened with a number of scattered stars above; some shining with real intensity. Muzadalifah was different to Arafat in other ways too: we no longer had cabins and instead laid out our sleeping bags under the open sky. Having arrived in the early evening in Muzdalifah and before many of the other pilgrims, the volunteers found a suitable spot to camp for the night and we had the opportunity to find our individual spaces. However opportunist this may sound we were surrounded by sandy fields categorised by a stony, dusty surface.

With a minimum of forty nine pebbles needed, each of the Hujjaj collected his individual pebbles some with over a hundred in their armoury. Although this task was assisted by the floodlights many shared torches to find their pebbles. From the late evening onwards it was time to catch some sleep; a difficult prospect given the fact that we were sleeping in our Ehram on a rigid surface. Many began pondering on the next stage of our journey, to Mina, in the morning. So far our journey from Arafat to Muzdalifah has symbolised two important emotions: fear and hope. With much more to come in the days ahead, it was time to rest and recuperate and for many to continue their ibadaat, their contemplation and their supplications…

Day 14, Monday 17th December 2007

This was the day in which our Hajj-e-Tamattu really began. Most of the Hujjaj arose by mid morning, mentally prepared for the important days ahead. Following on from Jamaat Namaz, Marthiya and the English Lecture; another delicious home cooked meal was served. Those that had been to Hajj before began sharing their experiences of Arafat, Muzdalifa and Mina; allowing the first timers to picture what may lie ahead.

During the late afternoon the Hujjaj put on their Ehram once more – an act preceded by Ghusl. Although this was our second time in Ehram the garments continued to be unfamiliar with many Hujjaj assisting others in wearing their Ehram. Strong emotions were felt by many. The time has really come for Hajj-e-Tamattu: the reason for our three week stay in Saudi Arabia and months of packing, preparation and anticipation.

The volunteers had arranged for us to meet in the Haram; just after Maghrib Salaat; so we could make our Niyyat together as a group and recite the Talbiyya. It has always been a surreal experience praying in the Holy Mosque, both physically and spiritually. Physically, it was strange to see people praying at different angles as they faced the Qibla. Moreover the fact that we were praying only a few feet away from the centre point to which we have prayed for many years proved inspiring.

Spiritually, the concentration level for this Maghribain salaat was intense with all the Hujjaj finding a deeper level in their Salaah.

The Kaaba seemed very different. The Kiswa (cloth on the Holy Kaaba) was cut up at each corner, divided into four pieces: one for each side. Observing the Kaaba on the day when all are leaving for Arafat was a wonderful opportunity. The volunteers informed us that this Kiswa was replaced annually and tonight this would take place whilst most Hujjaj are performing their Wuqoof (Wajib stay.) 

Reciting the Niyyat and Talbiyya for Ehram of Hajj was paradoxically similar and yet markedly different to the Niyyat and Talibiyya we had recited for Ehram of Umrah. We were all glad, just as we were last time, to hear his explanation of the Niyyat; and what the different categories of Hujjaj had to recite. It was markedly different; as previously we were excited just to get our first glimpse of the Kaaba; this time we were all intrigued as to what Arafat, Muzdalifa and Mina might hold.

We quietly walked back to the hotel, deep in our thoughts, heading for some last minute rucksack packing and niyaz; as well as waiting for the coaches to arrive. We were served with burgers and chips and soon afterwards the first set of coaches departed for Arafat: consisting of ladies and the elderly.

Whilst the gents waited for the coaches to return to transport us to Arafat, some hujjaj used the time to gain a few hours rest, others spent time reciting Du’as. The coaches arrived and we were taken to Arafat. It was the start of a new day, a day that would be one of the most important in our lives; the day in which we will catch a glimpse of Qiyamat and begin our Hajj-e-Tamattu…

With one day left before we set off for Arafat, there was understandably little movement in the hotel corridor any time before Zohr. Following a quick cup of tea; most people are in line, ready and waiting for Namaaz to begin.

The customary Sura Yaseen has been recited by a different person each day; with many new and novice reciters trying their hand. This setting is perfect to build up confidence before reciting in the home jamaat; for both young and old reciters. Dr Mahmood Datoo’s lectures are looked forward to each day, especially as he has information and insights which are both unique and fascinating. The focus on both the physical and spiritual elements keeps us interest.

The EHM-prepared lunches are a good contrast to the KFC/Hardee’s-prepared dinners. We are also very impressed by the quality of the volunteers; they show genuine consideration and care for our welfare.

 A full afternoon seminar on Hajj-e-Tamattu was arranged to prepare Hujjaj on the wajibats of Hajj. Ahmed Uncle Dungersi carefully explained the logistics behind the travel over the next four days; and answered all the questions related to Hajj-e-Tamattu, both mundane and complex, patiently and thoroughly. We were all surprised,  to be given safety goggles to wear during Rami (stone throwing); to protect our eyes from any stray pebbles. This level of detail in organisation is typical of what EHM do for the Hujjaj.

Each evening; the 9pm program consists of a Du’a and an Urdu lecture by Maulana. Today; we were spiritually uplifted by the powerful and articulate recitation a combination of Dua Mashlool and Dua Yastasheer. Today is the wafaat of the 5th Imam (a.s.); who we last week visited in Baqi, and Maulana’s lecture focussed around his life and his ultimate sacrifice.

It is pleasing to see other Khojas in the Haram; and every so often you will see someone you recognise from another community – immediately you give them a warm hug and congratulate them. We thank Allah (s.w.t.) for giving us an opportunity to meet each other, and thank Him even more for giving us the opportunity to worship Him all together in His Holy House.

Its 11.30pm; and I need to begin packing my EHM-provided backpack for the days to come…

Day 12, Saturday 15th December 2007

The day began with the usual but important lie in for the Hujjaj, with many awake until Fajr the night before performing their Aamal in the Haram. The Ladies Programme kicked off at 11:30am with Muliyani Rozmin Khimji giving the lecture. This programme, backed by almost maximum participation, has been ongoing for the entirety of our stay here in Makkah and many of the ladies have commented on the relevance and quality of the talks. The topics covered are those most appropriate to the ladies and are both factual and emotive.

Jamaat Namaz took place at the usual time of 12:30; and as is now the routine, was led by Maulana Qalbe Abbas. The Marthiya recited was once more not only highly emotive but also symbolised the ability and talent within the group. Reciters so far have been of all ages and many of those reciting have done so for the first time in public, building their confidence, with the aim of reciting at the centres back home upon their return.

Niyaz today was another fine selection of curries including chicken curry together with rice and a selection of fruits. By now many of the Hujjaj are repeatedly commenting on the high standard of lunch – thanks mostly to the two female volunteers who tirelessly prepare lunch. Many of the Hujjaj have stated that rather than being home cooked food: the food instead is far more superior than what they would usually have at home. We are also impressed by the juice selection – we had somehow expected to get just plain water; instead we get refrigerated water, room temperature water, as well as a wide variety of juices

During the afternoon many of the EHM family took time away and decided to go shopping. Makkah has a variety of shops on offer – from larger indoor malls to a multitude of bazaars in all directions outside the Haram. Shopping, however, is a combination of strong persuasion by the female members of the group together with the appeasement of the male members. In any case the diversity of shops and bazaars in Makkah, together with the guidance from the volunteers through their experience, has allowed the group to take full advantage of that on offer.

The Evening Programme began once more at 9pm at ‘Bab al Khoja.’ Increasingly the numbers of pilgrims in Makkah is increasing significantly; and this time the area had groups of Iranians, Indians, Europeans and Africans. After all: as we were told from the offset; we are only a tiny percentage of the Hujjaj. In many ways those in the Holy Precinct form a glimpse of the Umma worldwide, arguably in proportion. Now that the majlis and du’as have ended, many in the group are either performing mustahab Tawaaf whilst others are busy mingling with friends and family in other groups…

Day 11, Friday 14^th December 2007

The day of Juma holds special importance in the Muslim week; and we are lucky to get an opportunity to spend a Friday in Mecca. Many of the group cast their mind back to last Friday, where we were in Madinah, lucky enough to be in the same city as the graves of four of our Imams.

The day began with a recitation of Dua-e-Nudba at 6.30 am; which was well attended. We are fortunate to be part of a group that has so many programmes and activities organised on our behalf; and every event secures nearly maximum attendance. After the programme, we returned to our rooms for a few more hours rest, in anticipation of the Hajj-e-Tamattu.

The midday program always begins on time with Jamaat Namaaz; and today was no exception. Following a few moving Marshiya recitations; that brought many to tears, Dr Mahmood Datoo delivered an eloquent continuation on the history of the Kaaba, aswell as uncovering some of the deeper philosophies behind the history of Hajj.

We are really loving the home-cooked lunch provided by the volunteers after the program – with some sneakily suggesting that it is better than what they get at home! Ahmed Uncle had warned us to expect a surprise on the menu today; and we all gladly saw that the volunteers had managed to purchase some cassava; which was cooked into “Mohogo Ya Tui”.  After the consumption of another luscious meal, many of us are wondering how we could get such delicacies at home!

The evening programs began with a recitation of Dua-e-Simaat at sunset, in our hotel; followed by a program at 9pm in the Haram in our usual location: gate 62. Listening to the Munajaat of Imam Ali inside the holy Haram was very emotive: just as Imam Ali (a.s.) describes how lowly we are and how great Allah (s.w.t.) is; we can see how insignificant one human being is in perspective to the creator.  

Maulana Qalbe Abbas’ urdu lectures in the Haram about the tragedy of Karbala continue; and are bringing tears to our eyes. It is very sad to know that people, despite knowing who the Imam (a.s.) was, and despite (some of them) knowing the Quran by heart, still butchered the family of the Prophet.

Many of the group have cast an eye over the Amaal of Arafat in order to gain an appreciation of its meaning and trying to gain an understanding – and we see a less well known aspect of the 3^rd Imam’s life: his Dua. His dua for the day of Arafat is both poignant and eye-opening; and we are now less than five days away from reciting that Dua exactly at the same place he recited it, more than one millennium ago…

Day 10, Thursday 11^th December 2007

Returning Hujjaj from previous years have always described the Hajj has a life-changing journey; and the first change we have begun to notice in ourselves is a perceptible shift of focus. Back home, we fit namaaz in and around our schedule: praying in our lunch hour, tea break or when we get back from work. In Mecca, everything revolves around namaaz times: when we sleep, when we eat, when we go out and when we return to the hotel.

The lunchtime majlis today began with Jamaat namaaz; led by Maulana Qalbe Abbas; which was followed by a fluent recitation of Sura Yaseen and then two Marshiya.

Dr Datoo’s English Lecture was a continuation of the History of the Kaaba, this time talking about the history of Hajare Aswad; the Black Stone.

After the enlightening lecture, we listened eagerly to the announcements – there was going to be a Dua Nudba program early tomorrow morning; as well as Ahmed uncle informing us that preparations for Arafat / Muzdalifa / Mina are going well. We were all relieved, and tucked into our curry and rice heartily.

Walking inside the Haram and outside is an education in flags, nationalities and cultures – many of us did not realise there were Muslims in Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan or Myanmar. There are literally thousands of pilgrims from Africa, thousands upon thousands from India, Pakistan, Bangladesh & Nepal. The biggest presence seems to be from Turkey and from Iran: we are surprised by the vast number of Shia pilgrims that are here.

Our 9pm program at “Baab al-Khoja” is well attended; with nearly all the group making it: they all have their radios and du’a books in hand. Despite not having a constitution, charity number or mailing address; we are a forming mini-jamaat and an extended family right here in Makkah. Our Thursday night program began with a recitation of Hadith-e-Kisa; followed by Dua-e-Kumayl, an Urdu lecture and Ziyarat-e-Waritha.

Maulana Qalbe Abbas’ lectures are emotive and heart rendering; his narration of the tragedy of Karbala takes our minds back to the time when Imam Hussain (a.s.) had to leave Makkah to head for Kufa in order to protect the sanctity of the Haram. The story of Karbala reminds us that despite what we see as huge problems and insurmountable challenges for us here, he was faced with even greater challenges and bore them with immense patience – something we should try to emulate.

After each evening program; many take the escalators to the roof. It is a wonderful sight from here – the Kaaba is the only constant; everything else is moving: some pilgrims in namaaz, some entering the Haram, others leaving; and then, around the stationary Kaaba, the thousands and thousands performing their Tawaaf. Today brought another sight: thousands of Shia pilgrims in little groups; just like us; reciting the same duas and ziyarat we had recited.

It was heart-warming to feel connected and included with a part of a global community of Muslims and of Shias; all praying and worshipping in the same direction; and in a few days time, we will all be heading in the same direction: towards Arafat…

Day 9, Wednesday 13^th December 2007

With each passing day, the Hujjaj are settling into a rhythm in the Holy city of Makkah – we rest during the heat of the day, and visit the haram from the early evening taking advantage of the cool temperatures. The first activity of the day is the Jamaat namaaz for the entire group on the first floor; where everybody has been offered the chance to recite Adhaan, Namaaz Du’as or Ziarat. It is encouraging seeing so many of the group, young and young-at-heart, grasping this opportunity. Mukhi Saheb is ever so eager for everyone to take the opportunity to recite and can often be seen asking for names from those who have not participated so far.

After Zohrain salaat we had our afternoon programme. This began with a recitation of Sura Yasin followed by  English Lecture by Dr Mahmood Datoo which had two main themes: firstly a continuation of the History of the construction of the Kaaba and secondly on the spiritual aspects of the rituals of Hajj. For example he indicated, through one of his trademark acronyms, the spiritual dimension of the Tawaf.

Announcement for the day were made, emphasising about our health. Ahmed uncle advised us as hajj was approaching we have to refrain from overstretching ourselves and have enough rest. Lunch niyaz followed and included Khoja Pilau, fruit juices and Tangaweezi.

The lobby area of the hotel was bursting at 3pm, with the Hujjaj arriving exactly on time for the outside Ziyarat trip in  air conditioned coaches. The volunteers are becoming increasingly multi-talented: today they decided to stop several lanes of Makkah traffic so we could cross several roads – they clearly have been learning from the lollipop men back home!

Our first stop was an impressively large and rocky mountain, and this was where Prophet Muhammad (s.a.w.) hid from the Makkans during his migration from Makkah to Madinah. We were all shocked at the height and barren nature of the mountain – just a mere collection of rocks and dust, without one tree to take shelter under. Only then did we start to get an appreciation of how arduous any journey in the Arabian Desert could be; never mind being chased by Makkan Tribes. 

After another short coach journey we disembarked at another mountain – the mountain where the Prophet (s.a.w.) climbed to a cave to meditate. This mountain seemed to be even larger, more uneven and even more bare. Far in the distance, we could see tiny moving dots on the side of the mountain: some people were climbing all the way to the top. This site was where Jibrael came to convey Allah (s.w.t.)’s messages to the Prophet

As the sun began to set over Mecca, and Maghrib time drew near, we headed for Jannat ul Moalla – where the Prophet’s paternal uncle and guardian Abu Talib, the Prophet’s ancestors such as Abdul Mutallib and Abd al-Manaf are buried. We were unfortunately running out of time before Maghrib; when the streets would be packed full of worshippers in all the roads, so we had to recite Ziyarat on the coach overlooking the cemetery.  

Every door in the Haram has a name; and we have decided to rename Gate 62 “Baab al-Khoja”; since we routinely meet up and have our programs here. This evening, we were blessed to have a recitation of Jawshan Kabeer, with ten reciters each taking ten sections. Listening to the names and qualities of Allah (s.w.t) whilst sitting in His House reminded us of His Magnanimity and our lowliness. The recitation was moving, eloquent and fluent. Following on Maulana Saheb delivered his second lecture which described the moving events of Karbala. After the programme had ended – the group began to wander through the Haram; some taking the opportunity to drink the Zamzam water whilst others performing Mustahab Tawaf. As we left the Haram we began to notice that the sheer number of Hujjaj in the Haram was increasing significantly day by the day. The Haram, even in the early hours of the morning, was filled to its capacity with swarms of people cascading in for the Fajr Prayers. The Kaaba was surrounded by thousands upon thousands and filled to the edge. With only a few days to go and with still many more Hujjaj yet to enter the Holy City; we could only begin to contemplate the mammoth task that lay ahead…

Day 8, Tuesday 11^th December 2007

The Hujjaj woke up mid-morning after a well deserved rest to breakfast, which was served from the well stocked coffee table. The family feeling has started to develop considerably; with breakfast seeing people sharing the snacks they had brought from home or bought from shops nearby, as well as making tea for each other in the EHM issued mugs. There seems to be a never-ending supply of ghantia, chevro, bread, butter, honey, cereal, milk and a variety of other foods. A table has also been set up where hujjaj can prepare eggs.

At 12.30; we headed down to the first floor for Jamaat Namaaz (led by Maulana Qalbe Abbas); Sura Yaseen, Marshiya & the English lecture. Dr Datoo spoke eloquently about the spiritual aspects of Hajj, as well as the early history of the Kaaba. We were all eager to look at the laminated handout he has prepared for us; which was passed around: it showed a plan of the Kaaba current and past.

Following his lecture, we were served our second home cooked lunch: this time we were served dishes such as Kadee, Kitchri and mince curry; as well as assorted fruit juices and “Labban” (yoghurt drink). In order to soothe the large number of sore throats in the group; we were served with “Tangaweezee” – a ginger drink that simply works wonders. It was a touching gesture, and shows the concern that the whole EHM volunteer team has for our welfare.

Various announcements are made after the lecture and Ahmed Uncle informed the group that preparations for Mina and Arafat are going well and asked the group to pray that the arrangements are successfully concluded. He also informed us that the first group of Tanzanian Hujjaj had arrived. Our brothers and sisters from Tanzania had endured great difficulty in obtaining flights, but Alhamdulillah this seems to have been resolved now.  

After lunch, our health checkups (nicknamed MOTs) began. The medical team has converted a room in the reception area into a GPs surgery; with a bulging medicine cabinet and three tables, one for each doctor. For our MOT; we were led inside, asked about our general health, had our blood pressure measured and our chest listened to. It seems like everyone with even the slightest runny nose has been issued with antibiotics, pain relievers, and nasal decongestants – but the point is clear: we want to be as healthy as possible for Hajj-e-Tamattu in a few days time.

Medical services are not only available for us; but the opening hours are also available for all others, in the hotel and outside. Signs in Arabic and English have been put up showing the opening hours and where exactly the surgery is. The doctors are doing a valuable job, not only for us, but also for others outside our own immediate group – they do not just issue prescriptions and expect the patient to buy the medicine for themselves, they actually hand out medicines free of charge. The care they show in dealing with patients is heart-warming.

Our daily 9pm majlis inside the Haram began with a recitation of Sura Yaseen, the Munajaat of Shabaniyah, which was followed by a short urdu lecture by Maulana. The group was moved by the deep meaning of the dua, as well as the emotional narration in urdu of our 3^rd Imam’s sacrifice in Karbala by Maulana Saheb. The programme ended at 10:30pm and the Hujjaj scattered – some to perform their Mustahabats others for a late dinner. Yet others went to the top of the haram, to gaze down at the the Kaaba. Encircled by waves of Muslims from all of the world, this sight proved to be a spectacle that we simply could not take our eyes off. So here we are on the roof looking with a view of the Kaaba from above: magnanimous, magnificent and marvellous. SubhanAllah…